SuperUtes Harness Quick Start Guide

SuperUtes Harness Quick Start Guide

Overview

The SuperUtes harness is a control harness manufactured to cater to the SuperUtes race series. The goal of the harness is to provide a core base of wiring from the Nexus R5 VCU to the full vehicle, including engine and body demands with minimal additional wiring required. The harness is split into three (3) sections that cover the headlights, engine, wipers, cabin, fuel pump and tail lights. In order to make the harness viable for the full field of utes, all body connectors have been terminated with Deutsch connectors with suitable mating connectors supplied. This allows the installer to make small adapter harnesses from their headlights, taillights, wipers and dashboard/cabin devices that will plug straight into the supplied Haltech harness. We recommend harvesting the required OEM connectors from your factory harness when stripping the vehicle down, then cutting a pigtail of wiring with enough length in order to crimp and terminate a Deutch connector.

The main harness contains all the R5 connectors, engine harness, wiper IO, cabin IO and the connectors to join to the front and rear body sub-harnesses.

The front body sub-harness has headlights and front wheel speed signals, while the rear body sub-harness has fuel pump, driveshaft speed and taillight wiring.


Components

A complete install will require the following parts supplied by Haltech:

●     1x HT-195000 Nexus R5 VCU 

●     1x HT-186700 - SuperUtes Main Harness

●     1x HT-186701 - SuperUtes Front Body Harness

●     1x HT-186702 - SuperUtes Rear Body Harness

●     1x HT-186703 - SuperUtes Mating Connector Pack

●     1x HT-010920 Bosch Fluid Pressure and Temperature Sensor

●     1x HT-010200 Air Temperature Sensor

●     1x HT-010306 Oil Temperature Sensor

●     1x HT-011402 Haltech CAN Keypad 3x5

●     1x HT-159000 Elite CAN Hub 4 Port DTM-4

●     1x HT-010747 NTK Wideband Hardware Pack

Additional parts for installation:

●     2x 8mm Insulated ring terminal for thermofan and wiper ground.

●     1x Insulated spade terminal for starter motor (or small ring terminal depending on starter).

●     2x Resistors for front wheel speed/ABS sensors (270Ohm 0.5W recommended).

●     2x Ring terminals suitable for 1 AWG cable to terminate the battery end of ECU power and ground.

●     Enough battery cable to reach from ECU to battery for both positive and negative. (1 awg preferred for correct sizing in Nexus R5 surlock connectors).

●     Depending on how much has been harvested from the OEM harness, additional wire may be required to extend the wiper, headlight or taillight wiring to reach the termination point in the harness. 18 AWG is recommended for headlight, taillight and wiper terminations. 20-22 AWG is suitable for front wheel speed signals.

●     Several open barrel splice crimps may be required to join wires together if extending any OEM wires during your adapter creation.

●     Heatshrink is preferred for insulating over exposed crimps once they have been made in the harness.

●     Suitable mating connector for your thermofans (Brand/Model dependent).

●     Various crimping tools for Deutsch DTM, DT and DTP closed barrel terminals as well as open barrel varieties for splice crimps and thermofans. You will also require crimpers capable of terminating insulated spade and ring terminals. Battery cables will require a hydraulic hex die crimper for best results.

Installation

Before beginning the installation Haltech recommends first assessing the vehicle and establishing the basic harness route. The harness has been designed to mount the ECU inside the cabin in the passenger side kick panel area. It can easily be mounted to the foremost upright of the roll cage. The firewall will require a 2.5” hole on the passenger side, either to be added or if an existing OEM grommet hole exists it can be reused. Some models may have larger diameter holes and will require a plate to adapt them down to 2.5”.

The rear sub-harness wiring will either need to be passed through an existing hole in the floor or rear of the cab, or else a 2” hole will need to be added. The rear harness includes an installed 2” grommet, however, this can be removed and transferred onto the main harness if your model ute has an existing hole closer to the ECU end. The rear section of the harness is designed to run along the passenger side chassis rail with branches for the fuel pump, diff speed and driver side taillight crossing at appropriate points as seen in Diagram 1.

The front sub-harness is intended to run down the passenger side of the engine bay to the headlight. Then through an available hole in the headlight mount or radiator support to run across the front of the vehicle behind the bumper or grille before passing back through into the engine bay near the driver’s side headlight.

It is assumed that the ute will have an existing suitable Tyco battery isolator relay fitted, as was used during the diesel engine era, with external and internal toggle switches wired in series to act as a kill switch. As with the previous engine management system, you will need a signal from the kill switch to be hooked up to the ECU for correct operation. If your ute is being converted from an existing diesel race car and is retaining the use of the Motec dash, you can adapt the existing dash, steering wheel harness and ignition switch panel to satisfy the cabin I/O requirements.

Once the harness is loosely routed through the vehicle you can begin plugging all of your engine connectors in and routing the harness to sit nicely across the engine. The next step is to make up your battery cables for the ECU and begin to modify your steering wheel and dash harness to send the right signals to the ECU through the Dash IO DTM-12 connector in the cabin. This requires the brake pressure sensors, ignition switch and kill switch signals to be brought together into a single bundle and terminated into one of the included DTM-12 receptacles in the connector pack. You will also require a DTM-4 containing the power, ground and CAN Hi and CAN Lo for your dash. This can either be adapted from existing dash wiring or made from scratch depending on your needs. CAN 1 on the ECU is pre-configured to work.

Please note, you will still require battery cabling from your alternator and starter motor to the battery and a sufficient ground strap from your engine and chassis to the battery. The battery cabling for the ECU is purely for the onboard PDM and the ECU is not intended to ground your engine.


Diagram 1.

Connector Pinouts for Front Harness

 

Front Wheel Speed DTM-4 (Both Sides)

Pin

Function

1

5V Switched

2

12V Switched Low Current

3

Wheel Speed Signal

4

Signal Ground

●     See note below about ABS wheel speed hookup.

 

Headlight DT-6 (Both Sides)

Pin

Function

1

Indicator

2

Parker

3

Chassis Ground

4

Chassis Ground

5

Headlight

6

High Beam

●     Lighting circuits are limited to 8A total, if more than 8A is required, please convert to LED globes.

 
Connector Pinouts for Main Harness 

Dash IO DTM 12

 

Pin

Function

 

1

5V Switched

5V supply used for brake pressure sensors

2

Kill Switch

Wired in series from isolator toggle switches

3

High Beam Flash

Optional - Can use Spare button on steering wheel

4

Brake Pressure Front

Move signal wire from back of dash.

5

Brake Pressure Rear

Move signal wire from back of dash.

6

IGN SW IN

Wire to one side of ignition switch toggle.

7

IGN SW PWR OUT

Wire to opposite side of ignition switch toggle.

8

Spare Output

Leave emtpy

9

Spare Output

Leave empty

10

Reverse Button

Wire to reverse button on steering wheel

11

Pit Lane Limiter

Wire to pit lane button on steering wheel.

12

Signal Ground

Signal Ground wire used for brake pressure sensors


Cabin Spare IO DTM 12

Pin

Function

1

5V Switched

2

12V Switched Low Current

3

Spare Analogue Input

4

Spare Analogue Input

5

Spare Pulsed Input

6

Spare Pulsed Input

7

Spare Digital Output

8

Spare Digital Output

9

Empty

10

Empty

11

Empty

12

Signal Ground


Spare Engine 2 DT-8 (Wiper Control)

Pin

Function

1

5V Switched

2

12V Switched Low Current

3

Spare 8AMP Output

4

Spare H Bridge 3

5

Wiper High Side Drive

6

Wiper Negative Switch (for “smart” wipers)

7

Wiper Park Signal

8

Signal Ground
See note below on wiper wiring.


Connector Pinouts for the Rear Body

Fuel Pump DTP-2

Pin

Function

1

Fuel Pump 12V

2

Fuel Pump GND

 

 

Fuel Level DTM-2

Pin

Function

1

Fuel Level

2

Signal GND

 

 

Diff Speed DTM-3

Pin

Function

1

Signal Ground

2

Diff Speed Signal

3

12V Switched Low Current

●     See note below about Cherry Red Hall Effect Sensor Diff Speed Hookup.

 

Left Rear Light DT-12

Pin

Function

1

5V Switched

2

12V Switched Low Current

3

Spare Digital Output

4

Rain Light (ground).
Note: Use 12V from pin 2

5

Indicator

6

Tail Light

7

Brake Light

8

Reverse Light

9

Empty

10

Empty

11

Chassis Ground

12

Signal Ground

 

Right Rear Light DT-8

Pin

Function

1

5V Switched

2

12V Switched Low Current

3

Indicator

4

Tail Light

5

Brake Light

6

Reverse Light

7

Chassis Ground

8

Signal Ground

  

Notes

ABS Front Wheel Speed Sensor Hookup 

Most factory ABS wheel speed sensors will be a two-wire Hall Effect type. These are powered sensors that produce a square wave pulsed output unlike a non-powered variable reluctance sensor that will produce a sine wave output.

Wiring of a two-wire Hall Effect sensor is not immediately intuitive. They are often directional or polarity sensitive, and require the 12V signal to be hooked up to a specific pin in order to produce an output. You can normally determine this if you have access to a factory service manual, however, in the absence of this information, you may need to make an educated guess by dissecting the factory harness or by trial and error as you can only get it right or have it back to front once.

The second pin will be your signal pin back to the ECU, but instead of simply hooking it up and leaving it to be, you will actually need to wire in a pull down resistor to ground. A 270Ohm 0.5W resistor spliced across the signal wire into the signal ground pin (found in the wheel speed DTM-4) should perform adequately to produce a rising and falling square wave output when the wheel spins. Typically the signal will not rest fully at 0V or rise all the way to 5V, but it does provide a sharp edge for the ECU to pick up on and read as a tooth. 


Cherry Red Hall Effect Sensor Diff Speed Hookup

Please take care when wiring this sensor as incorrect wiring will damage this sensor!

The Cherry Red Hall Effect sensors used on the utes usually come un-terminated so it is essential to double check the sensor side pinout to ensure it matches this connector. The colours on the sensor side are as follows: Brown - 12V, Black - Speed Signal, Blue - Signal Ground. A DTM-3 receptacle plug has been included pre-terminated on the harness, however in the event that your vehicle has the receptacle on the sensor side a DTM-3 plug has been included in the connector pack. You can cut one of the receptacles off and terminate the DTM-3 instead.

Do not reverse the polarity of active sensors as sensor damage will occur.


Windscreen Wiper Wiring

In the main harness section, there is an DT-8 connector on the engine bay side that contains the necessary IO for hooking up your wipers. The first step is to identify whether or not your wipers have multiple windings that are 12V switched for the different speeds with a park signal output or whether or not the wipers have constant 12V and ground while the body control module negatively switches the wiper motor on and off. If you have the first, more basic style, you will need to identify the ground wire or wires on your wiper motor and terminate them with an 8mm ring terminal that can be fixed to the chassis.

Next, you will need to identify the high speed winding on your motor. For our purposes, it is only necessary to connect this winding. You can insulate the low speed winding and leave it unterminated. The final wire you need to identify is your park signal, this can either be a single wire with a common ground to the main wiper ground, or it can have a dedicated ground wire that will also need to be crimped into your ring terminal. Once you have identified the high speed winding and the park signal wire, you can terminate them into the DT-8 connector using the supplied receptacle and pins in your connector pack. The necessary pins can be found on Pin 5 and Pin 7 in the DT-8 connector. Please note, do not ground your wiper motor through the signal ground pin found in this connector! It is reserved for use with 5V devices and low current sensors

If you instead have a body control module that controls the wipers they may require constant power and ground with a negative switch to turn them on. This will require a fused power wire to be added straight to the positive battery stud that your isolator relay switches. Then you can use pin 6 on the Engine Spare 2 connector instead of pin 5. For wiper motors of this style you would typically not have a park signal as the motor is capable of parking internally when the control signal is removed. 

Windscreen Wiper Wiring

 

In the main harness section, there is an DT-8 connector on the engine bay side that contains the necessary IO for hooking up your wipers. The first step is to identify whether or not your wipers have multiple windings that are 12V switched for the different speeds with a park signal output or whether or not the wipers have constant 12V and ground while the body control module negatively switches the wiper motor on and off. If you have the first, more basic style, you will need to identify the ground wire or wires on your wiper motor and terminate them with an 8mm ring terminal that can be fixed to the chassis.

Next, you will need to identify the high speed winding on your motor. For our purposes, it is only necessary to connect this winding. You can insulate the low speed winding and leave it unterminated. The final wire you need to identify is your park signal, this can either be a single wire with a common ground to the main wiper ground, or it can have a dedicated ground wire that will also need to be crimped into your ring terminal. Once you have identified the high speed winding and the park signal wire, you can terminate them into the DT-8 connector using the supplied receptacle and pins in your connector pack. The necessary pins can be found on Pin 5 and Pin 7 in the DT-8 connector. Please note, do not ground your wiper motor through the signal ground pin found in this connector! It is reserved for use with 5V devices and low current sensors

If you instead have a body control module that controls the wipers they may require constant power and ground with a negative switch to turn them on. This will require a fused power wire to be added straight to the positive battery stud that your isolator relay switches. Then you can use pin 6 on the Engine Spare 2 connector instead of pin 5. For wiper motors of this style you would typically not have a park signal as the motor is capable of parking internally when the control signal is removed. 



Keypad Button assignments















* Keypad and dash need to be connected to the CAN 1 connector on the ECU to function.











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